IKEA Hack: LACK Small Nesting Table Converted to Children's Play Vendor Cart & Puppet Theater

At What Point Do You Become IKEA Hack Pros?

We’ve now knocked out hacks for the 1) DUKTIG children’s play kitchen, 2) created one-of-a-kind transforming home office desks (utilizing several different IKEA products), 3) added casters to the GULLIVER crib, 4) made a dog kennel cover from the INGO pine table and 5) converted the larger of two LACK nesting tables into a LEGO® play table. And, if “professional” means selling something – why yes, we have sold one of these already! So, perhaps that does make us pros!

This last one in the list, we just wrapped up at the beginning of this year with every intention to continue forward in hacking the smaller of the two LACK nesting tables. The vision this time: an ice cream vendor cart. But wait! It turned into more!

Let’s start with our supplies list:

Shopping List

IKEA

We started with the IKEA LACK set-of-2 nesting tables (in gray), a combined price of $29.99, but only used the smaller of the two tables for this project. (The larger one was used for our earlier LEGO® play table project). The rest of our shopping list included:

One 16.5″ x 11.75″ x 4″ IKEA TROFAST storage boxes (come in white, yellow, or green – we selected yellow; $3 ea.)
One set-of-2 (2 total) IKEA BAGGANÄS stainless steel handles (also come in black or brass color; $10.99 per set)
Two yards of IKEA SOFIA fabric in classic white/gray stripes (also comes in white/black and white/yellow; $7.99/yard)

The IKEA items, before sales tax, $39.97 (this is assuming one-third the cost of the LACK tables, since we only used the smaller one).

Lowe’s Home Improvement

Four 1-5/8″ Roller Casters (Item #66942 Model #4265599; $5.58 ea.)
Four 7/8″ x 48″ Round Wood Poplar Dowel Rods (Item #19385 Model #430911; $3.78 ea.) – look down these to ensure they are the straightest available ones before purchasing
One 1″ x 2″ x 8′ Select Pine Board (Item #1206 Model #83706; $4.96)
One 1/2″ x 3/4″ x 8′ Pine Stop (Item #3487 Model #EC254; $6.96)
Four packages (2 ct. ea.) Hillman #12 x 3-in Silver Zinc-Plated Flat Wood Screws (Item #57251 Model #490033; $1.28 ea.)
One package (10 ct.) Hillman #8 x 1-in Zinc-Plated Hanger Bolt (Item #124015 Model #491409; $1.28)
One package (6 ct.) 1/2″ Hillman Steel Cup Hook (Item #58433 Model #490944; $1.28)
One Krylon Colormaxx General Purpose Spray Paint in matte deep gray (Item #1026759 Model #K05550007; $3.98) – or if you get the black/white LACK tables, get black to match
Elmer’s Wood Glue (Item #41148 Model #E700; $1.98)
One box (75 ct.) Particle Board 3/4″ (number 6) Phillips Yellow Dichromate screws (approximately $9.49) – on Amazon

The Lowe’s items, before sales tax, $72.49.

Joann Fabric and Craft Stores

One yard Glitterbug Solid Crushed Panne fabric in red ($6.99/yard)
Half yard Glitterbug Solid Crushed Panne fabric in black ($6.99/yard)
Two yards Muslin fabric in white ($2.99/yard) – used to line the IKEA fabric
One spool of Offray Grosgrain Ribbon 3/8″ x 21′, silver ($2.99)
Two Ss 27in Daffodil Chair Tie ($8.99 ea.)
Five packs VELCRO Brand 0.75”x24” Fabric Fusion Heat-Activated Adhesive (three beige; Item #8585440; two black; Item #8432684; $7.99 ea.)
One package Dritz 1/4″ 2-Part Eyelet Kit in matte gold ($5.99)
One package Dritz Fray Check Sealant ($5.99)

The Joann items, before discounts and coupons, sales tax, $89.37. Items are often on sale or you can apply 40% off to a single non-sale item per transaction. Exclusions apply. Download the Joann mobile app.

Joann Glitterbug Solid Crushed Panne Fabric

Michaels Stores

Four ArtMinds Wooden 1.75″ Doll Heads ($4.49 ea.) – the finials at Lowe’s were either too big or too small; these “doll heads,” with pre-drilled pilot holes, worked just perfect

The Michaels items, before discounts and coupons, sales tax, $17.96. Items are often on sale or you can apply 40% off to a single non-sale item per transaction. Exclusions apply. Download the Michaels mobile app.

Optional Accessories

Target Dollar Spot Pretend Play Ice Cream Shoppe Set by Horizon Group (1 apron, 1 hat; Item: #93221; $5 ea.)
Melissa & Doug Wooden Scoop & Serve Ice Cream Counter ($49.99)
Melissa & Doug assorted puppets ($15.47+)
IKEA assorted puppets ($4.99+)
IKEA DUKTIG toy cash register ($17.99)
IKEA DUKTIG assorted play food (14-piece vegetables set: $9.99; 9-piece fruit basket set: $9.99)
IKEA SOCKERÄRT white pitcher ($9.99)
IKEA SMYCKA artificial flower, ranunculus, white ($2.99 ea.)
Children’s Apron ($13.99)
Girls Sun Hat ($14.99+)
Black Desk Clip-On Light(s) (Varies) – if you want to illuminate the puppets, you may want to consider a clip-on light or two that can hang over the puppets, attached to the canopy frame

Total Project Cost

All essential materials, before tax (and any store discounts applied at checkout), totaled: $219.79.

Tools on Hand

You will also need to have on hand, or borrow (from a friend, neighbor, or local tool library):

Standard tape measure
Leveler
Pencil
Drop cloth for spray painting
P220 Sandpaper (Such as 3M SandBlaster)
IRWIN Marples 7/8-in Woodboring Forstner Drill Bit (Lowe’s: Item #775985 Model #1966899; $11.48)
Cordless Drill with a 1/8″ drill bit (always go approximately one diameter size down for your drill bit than what your current project screws are)
Miter saw
Hammer
Block of 4″x4″ wood – used during eyelet install in canopy, for counter pressure when hammering
Xacto Basic Knife Set” target=”_blank” rel=”noopener noreferrer”>Xacto Basic Knife Set

Multi-Purpose Children’s Role Play Table

Our daughter had already previously been gifted the Melissa & Doug Wooden Scoop & Serve Ice Cream Counter, so when we ended up with a smaller IKEA LACK table left over from the larger IKEA LACK table hack earlier in the year, we dreamed up an ice cream vendor cart. But, as we got going, the goals evolved and the end result was to make this into:

Any-kind of children’s role play vendor cart (on wheels)
And, a puppet theater

IKEA Hack: LACK Converted to Children's Role Play Vendor Cart

Step-by-Step Process

Woodworking & Power Tools

IKEA LACK Smaller Nesting Table (Before)

First, we attached the roller casters to each of the four legs of the assembled LACK table using pilot holes and 3/4″ (number 6) particle board screws.

75 Count Box of Particle Board 3/4″ (number 6) Phillips Yellow Dichromate Screws

Using a pencil to mark where the four pilot holes needed to be placed, while holding the roller caster in the middle of each table leg.

Pilot holes get drilled.

With assistance in pushing the drill button from our 3-year-old, screws secure the roller casters.

A screw is placed in the roller caster.

The finished look of the secured roller caster.

The table on wheels.

Second, we needed to determine the finished height of the dowel rods. We knew we didn’t want the entire height of this (with casters attached) to be any taller than the already-hacked DUKTIG children’s play kitchen it would sit near. But we also wanted our eldest to get some use out of this new hack before she outgrew it and it moved on to the younger siblings. That lead us to a front dowel rod height of 23″ and a back dowel rod height of 25″ to give the canopy a slight 2″ tilt downward, as if casting away the rain.

We cut the dowel rods at 23.5″ and 25.5″ respectively, to allow for 1/2″ of each to be glued within the table surface.

Miter saw lined up with the dowel rod cut marking. Measure twice. Cut once.

Cutting the dowel rods to measured size.

Next, we unscrewed the legs from the table, and set them temporarily to the side, to drill pilot holes from the underside of the table directly through where the leg screw holes were and up through the surface of the table. This would allow us to line up the woodboring drill bit in the exact right spot on all four corners for the dowel rods to support the canopy.

Going from the underside of the table towards the surface, pilot holes were drilled in order to line up the woodboring drill bit from the surface side.

Pilot hole, as seen on the surface side of the table.

We went 1/2″ deep with the woodboring drill bit on each of the top four corners. Coincidentally our woodboring bit had a depth of 1/2″, so that made gauging the depth very easy.

Here, we hold one of the legs, with screw attached, up to the side of the table to find out how deep the screw goes. This would give us an approximate depth to take the woodboring drill bit into the four corners on the surface of the table. No sense in drilling any deeper than the dowel rod would be able to go before hitting the screw.

Woodboring drill bit used on each of the four corners on the surface of the table.

Vacuuming the debris every so often allows for easier continuation.

Woodboring drill bit used on each of the four corners on the surface of the table.

The woodboring drill bit has a point in the middle. This made it easy to line up with the pilot hole we had drilled from the underside in the last step.

Once the 7/8″-wide holes were created 1/2″ deep with the woodboring drill bit, on each of the four surface corners, we did a test run of the dowel rods to ensure they fit to the right height. After the test run, we applied wood glue to the underside of each dowel rod and placed it into the drilled hole.

We used both a leveler and also a permanent frame structure (made of 1/2″ x 3/4″ x 8′ pine stop) at the top to ensure the dowels were set as straight as could be. This frame would also later double for our puppet theater curtain rods.

Each piece of the permanent frame structure was horizontally leveled, instead of installing at a tilt (as the dowel rods were). This would make the sewing portion of the project go a little easier later on. In order to ensure that the frame would be hidden under the finished canopy, we installed the left and right side pieces first, taking them to the height of the front dowel rods. This meant that the back of the side-frame pieces would be at a top-height 2″ deficit from the back dowel rod tops (and we didn’t want them any lower than this). Once those were installed, we installed the front frame piece abutted to the two side pieces and just underneath them. You will see a photo of the framing in the next section, last photo. We later added a rear piece to the frame to allow for back, black curtain panels to hang and hide the puppeteer. This piece we sat abut and on top of the two side frame pieces. We also decided on square-edged boards, instead of additional dowel rods, for the framing to make it much easier to place the and 3/4″ (number 6) particle board screws.

Two dowel rods temporarily in place.

Checking for the levelness of two of the dowel rods temporarily in place.

Four dowel rods in place.

Checking to ensure each dowel rod is as vertically level as can be.

Used 1/2″ x 3/4″ x 8′ pine stop board, cut to the exact width of the table, rested it up against the dowel rods to mark the spots for screw placements. Once lifted up to the top, screws secured the pine stop to the dowel rod.

Double-checking the mid-point of the dowel rod to make sure the pilot hole markings on the pine stop are accurate.

Drilling a pilot hole for the frame attachment.

Placing a piece of the frame, and then checking to make sure it’s horizontally level before securing it with screws to the dowel rods on each end.

Securing the frame with screws to the dowel rods on each end.

Once two pieces of the frame were installed, the third piece was rested abut the others for pilot holes to be made.

Pilot hole in part of the frame.

With the dowel rods securely in place, we then added gray-spray-painted 1/2″ x 3/4″ pieces, cut to size, to the surface on the front, left, and right sides of the cart to keep items from sliding off the tabletop when the cart was being pushed around. Each piece was placed exactly between the dowel rods and secured with 3/4″ (number 6) particle board screws. It’s our later goal to attach a bar to one or both the left and right sides for pushing, pulling, and hanging hand towels, which means the table may be lifted up with a slight tilt when in motion.

Since the spray-painted-gray 1/2″ x 3/4″ x 8′ pine stop wasn’t cut tightly to the dowel rods, not only were measurements taken for pilot holes for two screws, but also to evenly install between the two opposing dowel rods on each end.

Pilot hole is drilled.

Pilot hole is drilled through the surface of the table.

A screw secures the pine board on each end.

With a little button-pushing-help from our 3-year-old, a screw secures the pine board.

The final look of the pine board installed to the left, right, and front of the cart.

The final look of the pine board installed to the left, right, and front of the cart. Also, a better view of the canopy frame structure.

Sewing

After completion of the canopy frame and surface rails, next up it was time to measure out all finished fabric pieces. This included:

Cart/Theater: A 3-sided skirt
Cart/Theater: The canopy with scalloped edges on 3-sides
Theater: Two side, red curtain panels (one for left, one for right)
Theater: Two front, red curtain panels
Theater: Two back, black curtain panels

The skirt and all of the curtain panels were rectangular in nature. All six of the curtain panels simply needed a closed, simple hemmed edge, and a straight stitch was used on the sewing machine to lock the polyester crushed panne edge in place. The skirt got lined with muslin during the sewing process, at the same time that ribbon was placed at the exact location of the four dowel rods, to tie the skirt on.

When creating the curtains, we multiplied 1.5 x the exact width measurement, to give the curtains a ripple effect. The two side curtain exact width measurement was 12.5″ so we created a finished curtain at 18″ wide. The front two panels, 10.25″ each exact width, so 15″ width was the finished product. All of these at 25″ height, which included extra material to wrap the frame at the top. The back curtains were near identical measurements to the front two curtains, except an extra 2″ to compensate for the height of the frame piece, for a total height of 27″. All of these finished included a 1/2″ inch turned-up-one-time simple hem on the edges.

The skirt ended up measuring 53.5″ wide by 14″ tall.

And, finally the canopy, we measured to the exact corners of the frame to give the canopy a nice drop at the sharpest edge. Coincidentally, with the 1/2″ wide frame attached to the top of the table, it brought the entire top of the cart nearly identically in-line with the table top (because the dowel rods are slightly recessed into the table). The rectangular portion of the canopy measured at 18.75″ (including 3″ rear overhang) x 23.5″, with 1/2″ seam allowance, the fabric was cut to 19.75″ x 24.5″.

Cutting the IKEA SOFIA fabric.

Using a square ruler to precisely cut sharp corners on the IKEA SOFIA fabric.

3/8″ silver grosgrain ribbon cut to 8″ length. Eight pieces would allow for four pairs to tie the skirt onto the four dowel rods.

Grosgrain ribbon placed on the outside of the fabric, which is really the inside during the sewing machine seam stitch.

The finished skirt with muslin lining showing, and 4 pairs of ribbon ties installed.

A pair of skirt ribbons secures the skirt to the table canopy dowel rod. Fray check was used on the ends of the grosgrain ribbon to keep it from fraying.

The finished skirt.

The canopy was a little more complicated. Not only would it be the only piece of finished fabric that would need to compensate for the tilt, it would have three scalloped-edge sides and a finished, short backside too. It would also be muslin-lined, similar to the skirt. In order to not have to line up button holes exactly with the dowel rods and focus on making a cohesive finished canopy, it was thought that eyelets could make for the needed pass-throughs for the finial screws.

We decided on a scalloped edge that would drop 3.5″ to allow for elder young children to get as much use as possible out of the cart before outgrowing its use at eye-level. A perfectly round kitchen item was used to make a pattern for the scalloped edges. We decided not to make the scallops as tight as the stripes intentionally. But of course, you could decide this differently in your specific hack too. The shallower measurement of the scalloping fell around 2.25″.

The canopy top, along with the three scalloped sides cut out.

A pattern is made for the scalloped edging.

A circular kitchen item is used as a guide to create the scallop pattern.

The scallop pattern is pinned to the fabric to trace out cutting lines.

The three scallop sides receive the scalloped pattern transfer.

Pins secure the IKEA SOFIA fabric to the muslin lining.

The excess material is cut away.

Notches are made to allow the seam to gather without restriction from the fabric.

The seam is sewn to the scalloped edging.

The scalloped edging with the seam sewn.

The three sides of the scallop edging with the seam sewn.

Ironing the seam flat.

Scalloped edging following an iron pressing.

The three sides of the scalloped edging are pinned to the main canopy piece for sewing.

The finished canopy.

The finished canopy with 3″ overhang on the back of the cart.

Canopy Assembly

After the canopy sewing process was complete, it was time to attach it to the frame of the cart. First up, we had to find the center point of each dowel rod, which is circular, to drill a pilot hole for the hanger bolts (double-ended screws with no head). We used this quick reference guide from Instructables for locating the center point.

Using a guide from Instructables.com, we find the exact center point of the top of each dowel rod.

Next, a pilot hole is drilled into each dowel rod.

A pilot hole is drilled into each dowel rod.

Once each dowel rod had a dead-center pilot hole in place, we held the canopy, stretched tightly over the four dowel rods (definitely need 2+ adults for this). Feeling through the fabric with our finger, we located each pilot hole and noted it with a pencil mark on the top side of the fabric. This is where each eyelet would be placed to form a sturdy pass-through for the finial hanger bolts. First, we marked the front two spots, installed the eyelets (and hanger bolts, see next section), then the back two later. This allowed us to check our work as we went. We used an eyelet kit purchased at Joann.

A pencil mark notes where the dowel rod pilot hole matched up underneath the fabric.

The pieces of the eyelet kit.

Reading the step-by-step instructions for the eyelet kit.

Step-by-step guide for the eyelet kit.

While holding the eyelet piece in place, a circle was drawn with the pencil to note how wide of a circle could be cut back.

An X-Acto knife opens the fabric at the placement spot for the eyelet.

Once the hole is in place from the X-Acto knife, one half of the eyelet is pushed through.

The second half of the eyelet is placed on top of the eyelet-kit-provided anvil and the end of a 4″x4″ board for counter pressure when hammering.

Hammering the two eyelet pieces to join together, using the kit-provided-pieces.

With each of the four corners of the canopy now having an eyelet in place, we screwed one end of each hanger bolt into each dowel rod using a battery-powered drill and then placed the fabric on top. We manually screwed the finials (i.e., doll heads) into place, which already had pilot holes on the undersides.

Using the cordless drill to place a hanger bolt into the top of a dowel rod.

The newly installed eyelet gets tested on the hanger bolt attached to the dowel rod top.

1.75″ wooden “doll heads” are used for finials, and are manually screwed onto the hanger bolts. The doll heads already had pre-existing pilot holes.

The finished look of the finial and part of the canopy frame, joining at the corner.

Temporary, When-in-Use-As-a-Theater, Curtains Assembly

As previously mentioned, the six curtain panels simply needed a closed, simple hemmed edge, and a straight stitch was used on the sewing machine to lock the polyester crushed panne edge in place. Once this was complete, we needed a way to temporarily attach them to the frame hidden underneath the canopy, but only when the cart was to be converted to a puppet theater. Iron-on Velcro was a solution that came to mind.

The first strip of Velcro was ironed onto the panne around 4″ to 4.25″ from the top. This would allow for the top of the curtain to wrap the frame snugly. And the opposing piece was ironed onto the fabric at the top-most edge. Iron-on instructions with the Velcro were followed precisely, including a press cloth between the iron on it’s highest setting and the polyester material, for 90 seconds.

These curtains are stored with Velcro closed, in a gallon-sized freezer bag, out of reach of the children. Velcro sticks to every fabric and the kids don’t quite get this yet.

In order to keep the curtains pulled back on the front of the stage, we finished this look off with chair ties, knotted and attached to a small cup hook on the back of the front two dowel rods (about halfway up each rod).

The first portion of the iron-on Velcro is placed at about 4″ to 4.25″ from the top edge of the curtain.

Fabric is folded over to ensure there’s enough gap to wrap around the frame once the Velcro is in place.

Velcro the full width of the curtain.

The four red curtains with Velcro installed.

A red curtain is opened up to show the Velcro attachment.

Pilot holes were drilled on the back side of the shorter two dowel rods (the front two) to place cup hooks to hold the chair ties (curtain tie backs).

The curtains are tied back with chair ties, knotted and cut to length.

The back side of a front dowel rod, showing the cup hook in action. Fray check was used on the ends of the cut-to-size chair ties and then lightly dipped in wax to keep them in check.

The finished puppet theater, front view.

The finished puppet theater, side view.

The finished puppet theater, rear view.

Drawer Assembly

There was no real reason this part was done last instead of the very first step of all, other than the fact it was an after-thought for this project. Just another place to stash stuff when the cart or theater is in use.

For a complete walk-through of drawer assembly, see IKEA Hack: LACK table conversion into a LEGO® play table.

This is also where the #12 x 3-in Silver Zinc-Plated Flat Wood Screws came into play. Once pilot holes were drilled into the boards that would support the drawer pulls, it was attached straight into the underside of the table. Not only did the screw need to pass through the 2″ of the pine board and also 1″ into the bottom of the table.

Note that this was a tight fit and the finishing rings on the drawer pulls were left off intentionally to buy just enough space for both the drawer pulls and the drawer itself to fit with free forward-and-backward movement.

Also, the other thing we did different this time, over the LEGO table hack was installing a small 4″ wide stopper (using the 1″ x 2″ select pine board) to keep the kids from continuously pushing the drawer into the skirt on the front side of the table.

1″ x 2″ x 8′ select pine board, cut to size, and installed to the underside of the table using #12 x 3-in silver zinc-plated flat wood screws. You can also see from this photo that the IKEA BAGGANÄS stainless steel handle is attached to the pine board without the finishing ring. The ring would have made this too tight of a fit.

The underside of the table with the drawer installed.

Table, now upright, with the drawer installed.

The drawer in action.

The rear side of the cart, showing the hidden storage only available from the back side.

The Finished Vendor Cart Hack

Mind you, we may install small handles to the left and/or right sides of the cart, to make it easier to pull around, but we haven’t quite yet found the right part that would be easy to attach through the skirt, from the outside. They would double as hand towel holders for the vendor cart. And, if/when that happens, I’ll make sure to update with a picture or two here. Otherwise, this project is complete!

IKEA Hack: LACK Converted to Children's Role Play Vendor Cart

And now, it was time to play…

Vendor cart in ice cream counter mode.

Posing with her vendor cart in ice cream counter mode.

Vendor cart in produce stand mode.

With curtains hung, it’s now a puppet theater.

Flowers thrown on stage for a fantastic performance.

Social Follow and Share

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“Ice cream! ? Ice cream! ? Does anyone want ice cream?” ? I’m not sure who the real star of this photo is…our sweet little 3-year-old role playing ice cream vendor -or- the $10 IKEA LACK nesting table that we hacked into both a vendor cart and a puppet theater. ? Ok, ok, it’s my daughter. ☺️ Brand new IKEA hack on the blog. Get all the photos, supplies list, and step-by-step instructions. Let me know what you think with a double-tap. Short URL: amysav.es/ikealack or click the link in my profile. . . . #ikeausa #ikeahack #ikeahacks #ikeahackers #ikeahacking #ikeahackaddict #ikeadiy #ikealover #diycouple #diyblogger #diymagazine #doityourself #ikealack #lackikea #ikealackhack #ikealacktable #ikeakids #lowesproject #childrensroleplay #puppettheater #vendorcart #vegetablestand #icecreamcart #motherhoodiscolorful #marylandmoms #marylandblogger #mdblogger #savingamyblog
A post shared by ?????? ??? ??‍♀️ (@savingamyblog) on May 13, 2019 at 6:07am PDT

Hot off the presses on the blog! Our 6th DIY IKEA Hack. Converted a $10 LACK table into a 2-in-1 children’s role play vendor cart & puppet theater. ❤️ https://t.co/FZBWoduFwo #ikeahack #ikeahacking #ikealack #savingamyblog #ontheblog #diy pic.twitter.com/xuxQ15DwYM
— Saving Amy (@savingamyblog) May 12, 2019

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